Brake Pedal Goes To Floor After Bleeding The Brakes Many Times

If the brake pedal is intermittently going to the floor she should not drive the car at all until it is fixed. You just keep pumping the brake pedal about 10-15 times, refill the master cylinder, then repeat. Last week, my brake pedal gradually got soft and I had to push the brake pedal farther to the floor to stop. Spongy brakes are when the pedal has a mushy feel to it that seems to go away after pressing it multiple times at once but comes back after laying off the pedal. Pulled wheel and inspected. When performing a hydro-boost brake booster function test the brake pedal should be depressed several times to discharge the accumulator. But not the way you describe it, just a little soft, and lower. It actually took a few pumps to get the car stopped from a slow roll. Re: Brake pedal goes to the floor, need help I did not bench bleed the master cylinder and I know I initially bled the system wrong in the beginning. I had metal on metal rear brake pads on the right rear. You can count on some softer brake pedal response until the assist unit loosens up a tad, the air fully purges out of the PS system, the brakes are re-bled after initial road testing, and the pads bed in. NEW_SOL Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE 2/11/2005 12:46:50: RE: Brake Hose Replacement, low pedal IP: Logged Message:. I added more fluid and re-bled the passenger front, but the brake pedal would go to the floor. If the brake pedal becomes either really hard or really soft, pull over as soon as possible and call for assistance. It's possible some bubbles may work themselves out through the reservoir but really the brakes should be bled. It is only when car is running that the pedal travel is excessive. My brake pedal goes to the floor after changing the front calipers and the master cylender, and bleeding the entire - Answered by a verified Ford Mechanic We use cookies to give you the best possible experience on our website. Air pressure must be produced to release these. Consumer had the same problem while driving at 30 mph applied brakes and brake pedal went down to the floor, and did not brake at all. The one brake shoe I checked was thin and tad over 1/8" thick. After doing all four wheels, operate the brake pedal several times. I still had a slightly spongy pedal feel after the 1st round of bleeding so then took the car to a dirt track and fired the ABS 2-3 times and re-bleed the system as above and the pedal was then solid. Brakes went out and found out the brake lines were rusted and leaking. We manually pop the pedal back out, then repeat the bleeding process having to reset the pedal by hand everytime after i close the valve. This was happening prior, but not as bad. Then I use an adapter from the brake flush machine to my mightyvac. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. Multiple times when I had someone release the brake pedal, the lines were still open thus sucking air into the system, but that doesnt really matter anymore since I got the whole system flushed. 2019 brake pedal is going all the way to the floor again, back to Ford deal I go, and this time they replaced the Master Cylinder for $400. I didn't bench bleed the MC before refitting I just connected it back up, filled it and bled the system as follows: N/S R - O/F R - N/S F - O/S F. If Ipump them a bunch it will stiffen up, but only for a couple seconds and its back to the floor. I had to push it almost to the floor before it would begin to stop. You will quickly figure it out, with feedback from your assistant. Don't let the pedal travel all the way to the floor. I have a nice firm brake pedal when the car is not running, as soon as I start the engine, the pedal goes almost to floor. After assembling everything the brake pedal is always pumped several times to force the pistons out and sit against the pads. So I ruled out the master cylinder, since I just replaced it last week. The pedal should drop about 2 inches. Then wipe any visible grit out of the reservoir. No triangle or check engine. A mushy pedal, one that goes practically to the floor before engaging the brakes, could indicate worn pads or a problem with the hydraulic system, such as air in the line, an air leak or a brake fluid leak. Rather than holding the pressure generated by the master cylinder and using it to apply the brakes, the leak allows the pressure to dissipate and the fluid to leak out of the system. Bleed all four wheels again using Steps 3-9. After starting the engine I found the brake pedal would slowly drift to the floor when applied. I have checked for leaks, I also bench bleed the master cylinder. Still no brake pressure. I am able to fix this by just bleeding again. We get an occasional customer who is concerned that the pedal goes to the floor if you keep. Have yet to replace the master cylinder, waiting for someone more experienced to take a look at it. For power brakes you need to use the lower attachment hole. all of the pads are brand new. Not all cars require the wheels to be removed. 2005 Toyota Camry with ABS. My Sienna 2005 experience intermittent complete brake failure 3 times within 18,000 miles,the brake pedal goes to the floor and it does not slow down, so I coast until I stop. Repeat steps (1) - (8) at the LH caliper. I purchase a new master it is installed and still have a very soft pedal. Release the brake line pressure by pumping the brake pedal at least 10 times with the ignition OFF. After getting it home I checked the brakes and they looked as thought they should work (note it was inspected in Dec 2015 and passed). Replaced the master cylinder bled brakes, good pedal when not running but goes to floor when started 4 Answers Bleeding brakes on a 95 Silverado after I replaced the master cylindar 1995 Chevrolet C/K 1500 Cheyenne Extended Cab Stepside 4WD. Air is compressible and results in a spongy brake pedal. The cushion holds everything in place when the pedal goes to the floor after I have opened a bleeder valve. Intro: Recently I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder on my ’92 NA. Had brake lines replaced on both sides, added fluid light went off in car but brakes are still going all the way to floor. So then rear calipers were replaced, no improvement, he convinced me the master cyl was bad, so that was done, no improvement. Look closely the motion of the fluid in the master-cylinder reservoir. Took my vehicle in for service and repair. It is only when car is running that the pedal travel is excessive. On some applications, there are two attachment points on the brake pedal. I have checked for leaks, I also bench bleed the master cylinder. You will need to bleed the brake system. Brake pedal was fine most of the time but occasionally it would sink to the floor while stopping and it would be hard to stop. Step 4: After all the brakes have been bled, test the brake pedal for firmness. Wipe each fitting with a dry paper towel, pump the brake pedal, go back and re check the fitting with a dry towel. Also do this test first thing in the morning. I bled the brakes again and have some pedal back but not 100%. 2005 Toyota Camry with ABS. Pump the pedal and have a helper open and shut the bleed valve really quickly. That way I don't have to push the pedal to the floor and damage the piston seals. With the truck off I could pump the brakes 3 or 4 times and they would be solid as a rock and hold. Once you no longer see bubbles you close the bleeder and go to the next wheel. 80 series brake pedal going to the floor ??? Unread post by yogi_td80 » November 14th, 2007, 2:21 am I recently lost a rear brake line and after getting the brake lines replaced I was advised that the master cylinder had gone as well. Bleeding before/after track events is a good idea to be sure your brakes are optimal for the event and you didn't boil your fluid during. I have to pump the brakes but there has been no problem with pedal going to floor and no brakes Keeps bleeding down The master cylinder has been replaced three times now. After assembling everything the brake pedal is always pumped several times to force the pistons out and sit against the pads. Problem almost resolved. Page 1 of 2 - Bleeding Brakes - posted in Problems, Questions and Technical: I know this has been discussed before, but I am unable to find the answer so grateful for advice. From what you have said, it seems unlikely that you would have introduced air into the ABS pump. The gist of this post to let you know that, in my experience and observation, activated the ABS after working on the brakes is essential. I was able to bleed the brakes without removing the wheels, but this is personal preference. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 as required, until all the air is removed from the system (when the foaming stops). 1st Gen Dakota Tech - '96 Dakota Brake Pedal Goes to Floor - Greetings, fellow Dakota friends. It's just a one way valve, Push it onto the bleed nipple and crack it open, make sure the reservoir is full and pump away. Less pressure will be needed to hold the pedal down. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. then bleed the rest as usual with engine off DO NOT turn the key on while bleeding abs brakes. I can see brake shoes moving very little on wheels but pedal goes to the floor. I have good brake pads and shoes. I have been using the "pump 3 times and hold with someone opens and closes the bleeder" method for years with success but maybe it is time to change my ways. If the brake pedal goes to the floor and continued bleeding of the system does not correct the problem, a master cylinder with. Pulled wheel and inspected. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when you apply the brakes, another cause might be severely worn brake linings. I’ve checked the, master cylinder, lines, pads, rotors, and everything is good. jun 20, 2014 - woodbridge, va - service brakes the rears brakes on my victory vision are working correctly the pedal is going to the floor. If the pedal is soft, then you have air in your brake lines. What absolutely worked was bleeding the rear brakes using the brake pedal and bleed fluid from the FRONT caliper proportioning connection bleeders! (Don't suck the rear brake reservoir dry during this or you'll be back to square one) Anti-intuitive for sure but damned if the air didn't come flying out (repeatedly) of the bleeders that couple. You can count on some softer brake pedal response until the assist unit loosens up a tad, the air fully purges out of the PS system, the brakes are re-bled after initial road testing, and the pads bed in. I purchase a new master it is installed and still have a very soft pedal. I am able to fix this by just bleeding again. Re fit them and give the brakes a quick bleed all around. Checked the front, all looked good. As long as you didn't open the fluid lines to the caliper or anywhere else, you don't need to bleed them. Every time I apply braking pressure while he. If foaming occurs, stop the engine and allow the foam to dissipate. If the master cylinder goes dry you must start the bench bleeding process over. When the engine is started, with your foot on the brake pedal, the pedal should: push back against your foot. Some procedures are as easy as pressing the brake pedal a few times and clicking a button on the scan tool; others will require you to open bleeder valves, which makes a real mess on the shop floor. Like often times i have to double pump to get the brakes to get a little more firm/more bite. Changing a brake line isn’t the easiest of tasks, but can be accomplished and save you lots of money. When Your Brakes Pulse. If your daily driver is starting to show its age, a new pedal pad can help to rejuvenate it, but when it comes to brake pedals we have so much more, from complete pedal assemblies for classic cars, and pedal setups that make it easy to run modern brakes on hot rods, to a wide range of pedals specially designed for racing. Are you able to stock ok? Or is the pedal on the floor. This caused me the same problem the first time I rebuilt the brake master cylinder. Also, make sure you pull the brake pedal all the way up when bleeding the brakes to make sure you get the master cylinder to move it's complete stroke. The system consists of service brakes, parking brakes, a control pedal, and an air storage tank. Dealer diagnosed brake master cylinder defect, requiring replacement of the master cylinder. You will need to bleed the brake system. I have good brake pads and shoes. Pump the brake pedal 3 times and hold. Go to the RR wheel and crack the bleeder slowly until fuid comes out. Always pump off the Vacuum from the brake booster first, key off, by pumping the brake pedal 3 to 5 times, now you can feel the brakes for a hard , sponge free test. I have done hundreds of brake jobs and never had a pedal go from rock solid to spongy as hell just by put front pads on even if the rotors were a little imperfect. The pedal seems to want to bleed down I'm stopping by to see the mechanic this coming Monday if not Tomorrow (Friday). With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve. This caused me the same problem the first time I rebuilt the brake master cylinder. Bleeding is easy. I didn't bench bleed the MC before refitting I just connected it back up, filled it and bled the system as follows: N/S R - O/F R - N/S F - O/S F. If the pedal ever goes to the floor, that means by definition that the pistons in the master cylinder have moved further into the master cylinder displacing brake fluid. The "breathing" doesn't affect the brakes' functionality, and is only a minor annoyance pending getting the new booster installed. 2010 Ford Fusion 4 cylinder soft brakes. Both rear wheel brake cylinders blew apart. Usually just applying the brake a few times corrects this and no further action is needed. 02-04-2010, 11:07 AM I've been putting this Silfro together for a while now, replaced quite a few parts, and its time to get it back on the road. If the braking system ends up with large amounts of air in it, a complete braking failure is possible. Replaced all four pads/rotors and performed a brake fluid flush, now my brake pedal isn't as firm as it should be, and it drops to the floor under constant pressure. I said three masters, replacing each one as I though that was the problem. A brake system with air in it is easy to diagnose, because the brake pedal inside the car will usually feel "spongey," and may go all the way to the floor. Truck used - 2004 GMC 2500 HD I did this video when replacing my rear brake caliper. cylinder) is I pump the pedal until it goes firm, he cracks off the bleed nipple about 1/4 turn then closes it again. I use ATE Blue fluid, (for the past 5 years) and the calipers have been rebuilt in the last 3 years. Adjust the brake fluid level as follows: Part B 1. Silverado & Fullsize Pick-ups - soft brake pedal while truck is running - i have a stiff pedal when the truck is off it only goes down less than a quarter of the way down off, but when the truck is on i can allmost hit the floor with the pedal and it seems like i have to push it a little too far down just to get the. it was out of fluid for awhile. The first thing you will ask them to do it pump the brake pedal about three times. In bad cases, this "air" in the lines can severely limit the amount of hydraulic force available to stop the car! It is wise then, to replace this contaminated fluid; the service manual recommends every 30,000 miles or 2 years. Pedal feel will "firm up" after quickly pumping the pedal a few times, but will go to the floor when applying continuous pressure. But not the way you describe it, just a little soft, and lower. Your friend will feel the pedal go toward the floor of the car. A common symptom of a leaking brake line or hose is a brake pedal that steadily drops to the floor as the brakes are applied. When depress brake pedal it goes to the floor before vehicle will begin stopping. Now they were spongy when i bought the Cruiser and a DOE cert stating a brake imbalance in the rear. No brake work was done during this service visit. I always bleed mine though since it takes literally 10 minutes of additional work. I pump up 25 in. "Will I notice anything when the ABS is working? In many vehicles, drivers may experience a rapid pulsation of the brake pedal--almost as if the brakes are pushing back at you. A few days ago I had to slam on my brakes and I locked up the tires, and after that my brake pedal went to the floor. I got home, and immediately noticed brake fluid pouring out of my rear passenger side drum and front drivers side caliper. No fluid loss. Soft brake pedal after replacing the brakes and rotors. A 2000 Toyota 4Runner was stopping fine. TIP: An easy test is to park a vehicle with a good brake pedal next to your car and run the vacuum to booster in question. However, brake lines are always hot after a drive, which makes diagnosis tricky. If the brake goes to the ground, then your brake booster is fine. Pump the brakes repeatedly. But the brake peal is soft and goes almost to the floor (although the car does stop without a problem). I did a brake fluid flush in dealership and they only charge $75 and applied a 20% off coupon. The pedal won't go down to the floor anymore after this job done. In addition to the basic brake system, there is a mechanical parking brake system that applies the rear brakes independent of the hydraulic system, to keep the vehicle stationary when parked. brought vehicle into shop and checked over, pedal is soft, if you pump it several times, it holds breifly and then fades away, the rear brakes were junk, there were chunks out of the rotors, replaced rear brakes, there are no lines leaking on vehicle, replaced the master cylinder with a napa master cylinder. We must purge any air that enters the brake system. See all problems of the 2009 Ford Fusion. I have a nice firm brake pedal when the car is not running, as soon as I start the engine, the pedal goes almost to floor. If the master cylinder goes dry you must start the bench bleeding process over. is my brake booster shot? Michael: You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then. One of the characteristics of this system is that when the vehicle is stopped, the harder you step on the brake pedal, the more assist is provided and the pedal will go nearly all the way to the floor. My pedal is spongy and goes to the floor. After bleeding the pedal travel had increased a great deal. View Details; Jun 22, 2004 - Glen Burnie, MD - Hydraulic, Foundation Components, Disc, Rotor CONSUMER COMPLAINED ABOUT A MAJOR BRAKE PROBLEM. I dont think the front brakes are engaging at all I called toms, which is where i got the proportioning valve, they suggested that it the valve might be tripped. If not, the brakes can possibly fail with an air bubble. Put a 1 by 4 in (25 by 102 mm) piece of lumber under the brake pedal. Note - you will have NO brake pedal doing this due to the vacuum and the pedal will go easily to the floor. Sinking/Spongy Brake Pedal???? With ABS SYSTEM!!Watch this before you buy a master cylinder!!It does happenIts Not always a Master Cylinder Issue! Must Watch! Check out My Amazon Auto. My mechanic and I have tried every type of bleeding and still the pedal goes straight to the floor with no resistance. Correct the leaks (if applicable) and then bleed the system again. When you bleed the brakes the seals will be damaged when they move over this corrosion and fail shortly after. Brake fluid containers left exposed to air will have the fluid inside compromised after a short period of time. What Márquez needs is time to get used to the setup. Loosen the bleeder. Register now to join our community of over 125,000 members and gain instant access to all we have to offer. I am having a brake issues with my 05 freestyle 2wd w/ traction control. I've bled the system. These discs were mounted inboard near the transmission, and were powered by the vehicle's central hydraulic system. Clearly the master cylinder is still empty. Somehow the brake pedal stayed soft. Opening the bleeder screws at the calipers and wheel cylinders allows you to drain, flush or siphon the old fluid from the brake lines and replace it with new. Put a 1 by 4 in (25 by 102 mm) piece of lumber under the brake pedal. With the engine off push the pedal as normal holding a slight pressure on it, If the pedal slowly goes to the floor replace the master cylinder. Last week, my brake pedal gradually got soft and I had to push the brake pedal farther to the floor to stop. I think something in the brake booster is stuffed. Other times it is hard and goes to the floor with almost failure to stop. Dealing With A Low Brake Pedal. Have a partner sit in the car and pump the brakes while you open the nut to drain out the old fluid and bubbles in the line. I have to pump the brakes but there has been no problem with pedal going to floor and no brakes Keeps bleeding down The master cylinder has been replaced three times now. Will, the blinkers and the brakes are not connected. Brake pedal goes all The way to the floor. I purchased the car new and it now has 130,000 miles on it. Any help on fixing this would be greatly appreciated. See all problems of the 1997 Chrysler Town & Country. Calipers [ edit ] When upgrading your brake system a larger caliper may be used to provide more braking torque. I've noticed over the past few months my '95 NSX brake pedal goes to the floor as if there is some type of leak in the system. If it goes to the floor, you either have a leak somewhere, or the master cylinder is bypassing fluid. Some procedures are as easy as pressing the brake pedal a few times and clicking a button on the scan tool; others will require you to open bleeder valves, which makes a real mess on the shop floor. I cannot tell you how many times I had people come and bleed my brakes as they were sure that **I** just didn't. I believe the master to be oe with 72K miles. Do not compensate for the rear brake adjustment by adjusting the parking brake, this will cause premature brake lining wear. I left the brake fluid cap on the master cylinder while compressing the pistons if that matters. Brake fluid should be bled every 2-3 years. Have a partner sit in the car and pump the brakes while you open the nut to drain out the old fluid and bubbles in the line. I have been using the "pump 3 times and hold with someone opens and closes the bleeder" method for years with success but maybe it is time to change my ways. New brakes and pedal goes to floor??!!! The brakes may or may not have been bled, but I don't think this is the problem. That's why a soft, spongy-feeling brake pedal that doesn't resist pressure and goes straight to the floor is a common sign that something's gone wrong in your brake system. When you apply vacuum to the clutch hydraulics, the master cylinder collapses. 2019 brake pedal is going all the way to the floor again, back to Ford deal I go, and this time they replaced the Master Cylinder for $400. probally a little too tight the second time i adjusted. also have fully serviced and adjusted the rear drums. Pads on left rear look like new. So today I replaced the caliper and pads, when replacing the pads on the other side that caliper was seized, go figure. You should be bench bleed the master cylinder anytime you are removing or replacing it from your Corvette. I pump up 25 in. It will however cause the brake pedal to be extremely hard to push. If the brake pedal is initially firm, but then sinks to the floor, check the system for fluid leaks. I have good brake pads and shoes. NEVER STROKE PISTON MORE THAN 1”. As a side note: The Tomberlin brake system is awful when bleeding. The pads are fine. Problem: No matter how much I bled the brakes, you had to double-pump the pedal after which the pedal felt good, i. When performing a hydro-boost brake booster function test the brake pedal should be depressed several times to discharge the accumulator. Brake pedal goes to floor after bleeding the brakes many times A wheel cylinder went out over a year ago. My Sienna 2005 experience intermittent complete brake failure 3 times within 18,000 miles,the brake pedal goes to the floor and it does not slow down, so I coast until I stop. (or if you have an idea where you messed up, redo that caliper and the calipers after that one and you may be ok). WELL after pumping the brakes and got out all the air. I bled the brakes again and have some pedal back but not 100%. And I almost have to push the pedal to the floor to stop. After changing all this I had a very soft pedal. My heart rate instantly triples as I figure my brakes are out. I had a helper press on the brakes in the car slowly after I opened the bleeder screws and had him lift the pedal back up once I closed it. It is spongy because the air will push back but you can press harder and get more pedal travel as the air compresses. I have no idea if this is a new problem, or if it did it all along. Very intermittent, brakes check out ok, could be replaced in another 5,000 miles, fluid level full, no leaks apparent. When depress brake pedal it goes to the floor before vehicle will begin stopping. Truck used - 2004 GMC 2500 HD I did this video when replacing my rear brake caliper. To test a vacuum brake booster, pump the brake pedal several times with the vehicle's engine off. Yes, this is what I was getting at. Google searches have said that it's a bad booster or master cylinder. After evacuating about 2-inches of fluid into the jar, close the fitting and refill the master cylinder with new brake fluid. Hell, the first time I did my big brake kit I did the same thing and couldn't figure out for the life of me why my brakes would go to the floor. The pedal won't go down to the floor anymore after this job done. The brake pedal travels all the way to the floor and is SUPER soft. Start at the front passenger. Loosen the bleeder. All the brake lines and hoses are good to go. Brake pedal goes to the floor after bleeding the brakes. We get an occasional customer who is concerned that the pedal goes to the floor if you keep. Bleed all four wheels again using Steps 3-9. Install reservoir lid so brake fluid does not spray from reservoir during bleeding process. tha car will have good brakes for a couple of weeks and then one day i go to stop and the pedal goes right to the floor just like i blew a line. There's not any way to check for this, but bleeding your brakes will remove the bad stuff and replace it with new fluid. Place wrench on brake bleeding fitting. 2 When bleeding by “pumping” the brake pedal, close the respective bleeder plug each time prior to releasing the brake pedal, so that no air will enter through the threads of the bleeder plug. Less pressure will be needed to hold the pedal down. Re: Need brake help-pedal goes to the floor I don't know if it makes a difference in this case, but was the metering valve on the proportioning valve depressed while the system was being bleed? I was having trouble bleeding my system and it got much better after I found out about this. I don't believe I'm losing any brake fluid anywhere, but it's had to say. I fitted new ones along with new shoes. Some people like to pump up the brake pedal a few times, open the bleeder to allow the fluid to run out until the brake pedal goes to the ground, close the bleeder and repeat. 2005 Toyota Camry with ABS. Bleeding is easy. After that bleed as normal with one person on the pedal and one at the wheel. The truck stopped, but like I said the pedal was way soft. After replacing the pad my Brake Pedal became soft and it goes close to the floor. When I would drive I could pump the brakes and about the 3rd pump it would return to normal pedal pressure and hold until I stopped. Rear Brake Cal. Bled all lines front/rear repeatedly but the pedal still goes to the floor. With the engine off depress and release the brake pedal several times to eliminate vacuum from the power section. Anything that increases movement, even slightly, will result in a lower brake pedal. When performing a hydro-boost brake booster function test the brake pedal should be depressed several times to discharge the accumulator. The feeling with a scooter brake was better, but he and his team had decided to revert to the normal brake pedal for the rest of Sepang, at least. Preventing Overheated Brake Fluid. I have to pump the brakes but there has been no problem with pedal going to floor and no brakes Keeps bleeding down The master cylinder has been replaced three times now. Explain to the pedal guy that the brake pedal will go to the floor when you open a bleeder and he should hold the pedal to the floor. With the engine running, I pressed the brake pedal several times slowly to the floor, and re-inspected all four wheels & crawled under the length of the truck for fluid leaks; agian, none found. A quick way to test the booster is to turn the engine off. After replacing the pad my Brake Pedal became soft and it goes close to the floor. After i tighten it, the pedal remains stuck to the floor when he releases it. Brakes barely work even after bleeding 3 times. After bleeding the pedal travel had increased a great deal. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times as necessary. I have replaced 3 disc brake calipers on my 2001 pt cruiser. If the brake pedal becomes either really hard or really soft, pull over as soon as possible and call for assistance. If it is then start removing I clamp at a time till it goes soft. I have put 2 master cylinders, front calipers, front flex lines, front pads and rotors, rear wheel cylinders and rear shoes and I'm STILL having this problem. Brake pedal goes to floor w/ engine on. This is a two person method without using a bleeder pump. After changing all this I had a very soft pedal. Changed all steel line at rear plus calipers and brake hoses. The brake would work eventually, but I was sweating the drive home. Truck used - 2004 GMC 2500 HD I did this video when replacing my rear brake caliper. I have been using the "pump 3 times and hold with someone opens and closes the bleeder" method for years with success but maybe it is time to change my ways. For power brakes you need to use the lower attachment hole. Now about two times a day out of nowhere, when I apply my brake pedal it goes straight to the floor. - Helper holds the pedal on the floor until you retighten the bleeder screw. The brakes are doing fine now, although they make a breathing sound upon depressing the pedal till I push it all the way down (not down to the floor, but till the pedal's as fr down as it goes). Brake pedal goes to floor. After spending hundreds of dollars for a new master cylinder,rotors,calibers,brake pads bleeding if the brakes multiple times we were then told that the abs module had two valves stuck in the open position. When the engine is started, with your foot on the brake pedal, the pedal should: push back against your foot. Depress the pedal and hold down with light pressure, 15 to 25 pounds. I have changed the brake fluid every 30,000, replaced the front rotors once. Most brakes should be bled every two or three years to keep your brake system at optimum performance. Close the bleed screw before the brake pedal reaches the floor. Bleeding the Brakes (rear) Then the brake bleeding starts. The routine for bleeding as a team goes like this. If the pedal does not gradually sink towards the floor as you continue with constant pressure on the pedal then the MC is more than likely OK. Brake pedal goes to floor 12-11-13, 20:44 Hi, have just replaced pads, rear shoes, wheel cylinders springs on shoes etc, bled the system as I believe its supposed to be done, adjusted the rear wheel star adjusters, but pedal goes to the floor. 100ml is enough to bleed a set of brakes (front and rear) 2-3 times. Bleeding technique is the good old 2 person pump them up, hold pedal, open bleeder, pedal goes to the floor, close bleeder, repeat the process. If the brakes are free after you've done this, the problem lies with the servo or the mechanical links to the pedal. Most riders are now using some form of thumb brake or other, while many are switching to a scooter brake setup. Then I use an adapter from the brake flush machine to my mightyvac. The pedal will feel firmer after each succesive sequence. We get an occasional customer who is concerned that the pedal goes to the floor if you keep. Too much heat turns the brake fluid into a thin liquid. is applied. When I tried to bleed the brakes myself. Replaced the booster and master cylinder under warranty. of vacuum and let it sit for 10 minutes then I pump the pedal slowly 30 or 40 times. You will find out which wheel is your problem. Who is paying for all this items?? The only thing that defies logic is to change so many items to obtain pressure in the system. System has been bled multiple times, cycled abs as well.